Monthly Archives: March 2026

The Sound of Silence

Summary: Appreciating Beethoven in a completely new way.

Conceptual image about human hearing

I. Hearing and Music

As a musician, my hearing is precious to me. I love listening to and playing music, and when I’m doing neither, during almost every waking hour, some music is playing inside my head.

Sometimes I can get earworms that last for days. If the song is one I don’t like, I’ll listen to other music or concentrate on any of a handful of favorite works to push the offending earworm aside.

The idea of losing one’s hearing is so disturbing to contemplate, especially to musicians, that I imagine many may superstitiously avoid even thinking about the possibility.

I studied ASL years ago, was given a sign name, and find the language and Deaf Culture beautiful and fascinating.

I have been careful to protect my hearing. I almost always have earplugs in my pocket, wear them whenever I travel, and have musicians’ ear plugs I wear in every rehearsal and concert. Well into my late 50s, I have enjoyed excellent hearing with minimal loss.

Last September, the Newport Symphony performed a stunning work called “A Silence Haunts Me” by Jake Runestad.

This 2019 work for chorus and orchestra is inspired by a letter Ludwig van Beethoven had written to his brothers.

Beethoven wrote this letter, known as the “Heiligenstadt Testament” in 1802. He never sent it, and it was discovered after his death. In it, Beethoven despairs over his hearing loss.

It was emotionally profound performance. Playing in the orchestra, we could not hear all the words being sung. But we heard enough. At one climactic moment, the chorus sings:

“Why? — Silence is God’s reply
— and so I beg me take my life —”

I highly recommend attending any performance of this extraordinary work. If you are a choral director or a member of a chorus, I encourage you to seek out this work and consider it for performance.

Since it is a recent composition, there are not many recordings, but here is one:


Just thinking about this piece can stir deep emotion in me. Little did I know I would soon understand it at a wholly new level.

II. Sudden Silence

A little over a week ago I underwent minor surgery during which I was put under general anesthesia. The surgery was successful.

I woke up with a dry, raw throat, most likely an after effect of intubation. It took a day or two for my throat to recover to where I could eat and swallow normally.

My left ear was also plugged when I woke up. I figured drainage and sinus congestion was the cause, but while my throat recovered, my left ear did not.

I took antihistamines, used nasal spray, took throat lozenges, and tried steam inhalation. Although all were successful in clearing any congestion, I still could not hear anything in my left ear. Maybe I had some other blockage either in the external or middle ear? I went to Urgent Care to have my ear inspected.

No fluid or infection was detected. They prescribed Prednisone and instructed me to see an Ear, Nose and Throat (ENT) doctor immediately. Since it was the weekend, I had to wait, worried and impatiently for Monday to try to see an ENT.

When Monday arrived, I called multiple ENT offices around the city to find an appointment. Most had no openings for a couple days. I found one office on the far side of town that had appointments available for an audiologist and an ENT. I got in my car and drove nearly an hour, anxious and worried about what I might learn.

The audiologist did a full battery of tests. I had gone through this just four years earlier, so I had a good baseline against which to measure.

The results were unnerving. My left side hearing loss was serious to the point where I could not distinguish words. The audiologist suspected I had SSNHL (Sudden Sensorineural Hearing Loss).

SSNHL is idiopathic – we don’t know what causes it. There are many theories, but none has been verified. The treatment is steroids, and it is important to take them as soon as the sudden hearing loss occurs – ideally within days. If one waits one or two weeks before treatment, chances of recovery greatly diminish.

To make matters worse, the ENT I had hoped to see was tied up in the operating room and wouldn’t be able to see me the same day. I would have to wait two excruciating days more to see an ENT.

Driving the long way home, thoughts of “A Silence Haunts Me” filled my head and overwhelmed my heart. What if I were to lose my hearing permanently? “Dr. Google” indicated I should have started taking steroids within 72 hours of onset, and I beat myself up for waiting longer than that period.

Wednesday finally came, and I saw an ENT. Thankfully, he was very thorough, compassionate, and explained everything to me. Yes, I do have SSNHL.

Since the Prednisone did not seem to be helping, the ENT recommended the next step, which he admitted sounded scary. He would be injecting steroids into my ear. I would receive three shots, one per week. He assured me this is the “gold standard” of treatment for SSNHL.

As unsettling as that treatment sounded, I would have let him do anything to increase my hope of recovery.

He also ordered an MRI to rule out any circulatory, growth, etc. conditions that could be the cause.

I asked him what the chances of recovery are. He said that about one-third experience complete recovery, another third gain partial recovery, and the last third do not recover at all. As stark as those odds were, they were better than I had been contemplating before meeting him.

He also said that because a) I had started my Prednisone regimen early (within two weeks) and b) that I still had some hearing in my left ear, he was optimistic about my chances of partial to full recovery.

He told me about one patient that had absolutely zero hearing from SSNHL. He was not optimistic about that patient’s chances, but they actually recovered most if not all their hearing.


III. My first rehearsal

I had not performed in four months. I was recovering from a shoulder issue, and the evening of the same day as my ENT appointment was my first rehearsal. I didn’t know what to expect.

For the first hour, I could not hear myself at all.

As musician, especially a string player, this is akin to flying blind – you have no idea whether you are playing in tune. My fingers moved with muscle memory to their spots on the neck of my viola, and I just had to hope and pray.

Gradually, my right ear began hearing a little of my own playing, and it wasn’t bad. I made it through rehearsal without incident.

This weekend we will perform an ambitious concert including Bernstein, Verdi, and Korngold.

Beethoven is not on the program, but he will be in my mind and heart as we perform.

The next month will reveal if and to what extent my hearing returns.

Update 1: Post-Concert (4 Days After the Onset)

I was able to make it through 4 hours of rehearsal Friday, two hours of rehearsal Saturday, and concerts both Saturday night and Sunday afternoon.

Although I haven’t noticed any change in my left ear, I have been able to adjust to hearing myself playing a little bit with right ear. Only at moments, though.

My next shot in the ear will be in a couple days. I am also scheduled to get an MRI on the same day.

I wait with hope with as much grace and as little anxiety as I can muster.

Update 2: Second Shot and MRI (15 Days after Onset)

I received my second shot in the ear today. I will get a third one a week from today. Amazingly (and rather scarily), they administered no anesthesia and were able to insert the shot through the tiny pinprick created by the shot one week earlier. I experienced no discomfort, heard some odd noises, and could slightly feel the drops that were injected. I experienced no pain, dizziness, or nausea.

Less than an hour later, I arrived at medical imaging for an MRI. I spent 30 minutes inside the massive tube listening to classic Rock punctuated by whines, pounds, and buzzes.

Since my left ear is so impaired, it sounded like they were only imaging the right side of my head. I guess, having reduced hearing is one small advantage to enduring an MRI scan.

I will receive my third ear shot next week, and the following week I will have a comprehensive hearing test to see if any of my hearing has been restored, and to what extent. I remain quietly hopeful.

Update 3: Acupuncturist (17 Days after Onset)

I had appointments with both my chiropractor and my acupuncturist. The good news is that my shoulder is healed. I still need to exercise it to strengthen it and increase flexibility, but after the rigorous and extended workout it endured rehearsing and performing last week, I experienced no pain.

I informed my acupuncturist about my hearing loss. He said he could assist me in healing my ear and promptly inserted about four needles around my left ear. He gave me added hope for recovery.

Update 4: Acupuncture and Ear Shot #3 (22 Days after Onset)

Up to this point, I have mostly kept a calm demeanor, letting myself rest and heal and keeping note on any changes, however small, I might be experiencing. I woke today, though, with some dread and heavy sadness I haven’t felt in a few weeks regarding my condition.

Today I had my third acupuncture treatment focused on my hearing. I always concentrate on anything I notice or experience during and after my acupuncture treatments, and when I shared with my acupuncturist, he was upbeat and gave me some confidence things were happening. That gave my mood a boost.

I then visited my ENT to receive my third and final shot in the ear. When asked if I was noticing any improvement, I answered, “no” and saw their face fall. That hit me hard.

There are instances where hearing recovers weeks or even a couple months after the shots have been administered. But they normally see improvements by now.

She gave me a larger shot, filling my middle ear with corticosteroid, then left me for 20 minutes to let the drugs hopefully permeate my thus far recalcitrant hearing anatomy.

I will return next week to get a full audiological test which will provide quantitative measurements of any changes or improvements.

I remain as calm and patient as I can, although today am experiencing more fractures in my equilibrium and serenity.

Update 5: Audiologist and ENT Appointments #3 (30 Days after Onset)

Today, I received another in depth hearing exam to compare with the one I had a little over three weeks earlier. The results showed no improvement in my left-side hearing. In fact, there was one higher frequency at which my hearing had degraded from “serious” to “profound.” The ENT does not think there is any chance that I will experience recovery. I have scheduled an appointment with another audiologist to discuss various technological solutions, the most likely being a crossover hearing aid (CROS) designed specifically for single-sided deafness.

One day later I met with my acupuncturist (who is also an MD), who encouraged me to not to lose all hope. He allowed that the odds are long, but that in every group of people, there will be outliers. Additionally, he believes the second hearing test was performed too early, and that healing and recovery may still occur. HIs words were encouraging, although I have to acknowledge my odds are slim.

I have also reached out to my neurologist to make sure there isn’t anything else going on which could either explain my hearing loss. Additionally, I want to rule out anything that might neurologically being going on. I certainly don’t want to risk losing any more neurons or sensory capabilities.

7. Madeira – An Adventure Awaits You!

Summary: A few tips about getting to and getting around Madeira.

Our second week was spent on Madeira and we loved it!

Madeira is one of two autonomous island regions of Portugal (the other being the Azores). It’s located about 700 km (430 miles) off the coast of Africa at nearly the same latitude as Marrakesh, Morocco. With springlike weather year-round, it is a popular destination for those escaping the cold of winter and is often called the “Hawaii of Portugal.”

Madeira, Portugal (Funchal is the largest city on the island)

Getting to Madeira is relatively easy and inexpensive. Although it is 1000 km (600 miles) southwest of Portugal, Ryanair and easyJet flights from the mainland can be purchased for as little as ~€40 (US$47 at this time). Many other airlines offer air service to FNC from locations other than mainland Portugal.

Ryanair and easyJet aircraft on tarmac

As with many budget airlines, those ticket prices often prove to be much higher — these two airlines charge for everything: carry-on bags, checked bags, choosing seats, etc.

Also, their carry-on and checked bag size and weight requirements are much more restrictive than other airlines. You really need to plan ahead, carefully weigh and measure your bags, and purchase baggage allowances ahead of time. If you have to purchase more baggage allowances at the airport that may cost you more.

We purchased large carry-on bag options for our easyJet flight to Madeira. Doing so also granted us early boarding which was a nice surprise.

Madeira Travel Tip 1: Measure and weigh your bags carefully and purchase the correct baggage allowance before flying to Madeira


Madeira’s main airport (FNC) is named after the Portuguese football (soccer) phenom, Cristiano Ronaldo, who was born in Funchal, Madeira. The Cristiano Ronaldo International Airport is an engineering marvel with a potentially hair-raising approach for passengers.

FNC is is a tabletop runway perched on a cliffside, supported by tall pillars with steep drop-offs at both ends. The original runway was much shorter. Pilots are still required to complete training and obtain specialized licensing to land there. The short runway, steep hillside, cross winds, short approach, and quickly changing climate conditions make it especially challenging.

Pillars supporting the airport’s tarmac. Note the expressway in the background

Pilots must circle the runway, make a visual approach, and line up for the short descent. During that visual circumnavigation, passengers get a good view of the elevated tarmac hanging out into the ocean, supported by concrete stilts which straddle a major motorway.

Fortunately for us, no cross winds or bad weather challenged our arrival and departures. The two flights were executed without incident and felt pretty normal.

After deplaning and making a stop at the bathroom, we saw people lining up for passport control. This was confusing to me; wasn’t Madeira part of Portugal? The signage didn’t seem clear, but everyone seemed to be queueing up. None of the automatic machines were working, and there were only two passport controllers. We waited and waited as the long, serpentine line slowly made its way up to the two controllers.

When we finally got the front, the agent asked us for our destination. A little confused, I said “Funchal” (the largest city on Madeira). He directed us back through the line to the far right path to the exit and baggage claim. This line was only for passengers flying OUT of Madeira, not for new arrivals.

I didn’t take a picture during our arrival, but here’s a picture of the empty passport control area.

Madeira Travel Tip 2: Upon arrival, go directly to the exit/baggage claim. Don’t get caught in the unnecessary passport control line!


Website and travel information led us to believe there was no ridesharing services on Madeira. I am happy to report that is not the case. Bolt definitely operates on Madeira, and you should definitely download and install the Bolt app for easy and inexpensive travel on the island.

The Madeira airport is about a half-hour’s drive to Funchal. There is a bus service, but when I found out how cheap a Bolt ride would be, we chose the latter. We used Bolt for the vast majority of our transportation needs on Madeira and on the Portuguese mainland.

I would not recommend renting a car as the roads on Madeira are narrow, steep, and twisty. Let a local drive you!

Madeira Travel Tip 3: Download and use the Bolt app for easy and relatively inexpensive transportation.


One thing I love to do when travelling is to buy a bus pass either for specific destinations, or for just random riding and exploring.

It was a little confusing trying to figure out where to purchase a bus pass. There are many competing tour bus lines in addition to the local city and intercity buses.

I’m hesitant about buying a pass on the bus since I was uncertain how to pay, how much to pay, whether I would be able to communicate with the bus driver — and I didn’t want to hold up the bus. I had to explore a bit until I found where to buy the bus passes. I finally figured it out, finding a round, pointed dome kiosk on the main Av. Do Mar street next to the waterfront.

Bus ticket kiosk in Funchal

Google Maps or some mapping app is really needed to navigate the twisty streets, boulevards, and pedestrian-only walkways of Madeira (and most Portuguese cities). It is easy to get confused and lose your sense of direction simply walking. These apps will also tell you which bus lines you might use to get to your destination. However, finding the correct bus stop and catching a bus is not so simple.

Bus stop sign in Funchal. Six bus lines stop here, but good luck recognizing the numbers on the sign!

For starters, the bus stop signs print the bus numbers in incredibly small text, and more often than not, the sign is blocked by a post or the roof of the shelter. This requires one to walk within a meter or two of the sign to verify the bus line number.

I had to walk up to within a meter or two of the bus stop sign to see the bus numbers

Secondly, either Google Maps does not have the correct bus schedule information, or the buses are not punctual (or both).

Third, just because you are sitting at a bus shelter does not mean the next bus will stop for you. You must stand up and walk to the curb as the bus approaches. Remain seated, and the bus may drive past without slowing down.

Finally, buses may be full by the time they get to your stop and will pass you by. This may especially be the case if you are in popular areas or trying to catch a popular bus (e.g. up the mountain to the basket toboggans and the Monte Palace). To avoid this happening to you, either try to catch the bus at its origin, or just take a Bolt.

Madeira Travel Tip 4: Taking the bus requires flexibility, patience, and luck


Everywhere we went, people were helpful providing suggestions of what to see, where to eat, and when to go. Their suggestions were consistently excellent, and we were glad to receive them.

As I’ve written before, ask your restaurant server for suggestions. They will give you honest, informed, and unambiguous suggestions for your food and beverages. We were never steered wrong.

Madeira/Portugal Travel Tip 5: Ask for and heed the recommendations of your driver, concierge, and server

We went on a couple of guided tours of Madeira. One was a 4×4 jeep tour and the second was a wine tasting tour. Both gave us beautiful views of the island and stopped in small towns for snacks and drinks. The locals are justifiably proud of Madeira’s history, rugged and beautiful geography, and delicious food and beverages. Some we just stumbled upon. Here is a random list of recommended things to see and do:


Visit the Monte Palace Gardens

After trying and failing to take a city bus up to the famous basket toboggans (aka “Carros de cesto do Monte“), we took a Bolt. Several of our Bolt drivers were locals who had grown up on Madeira, and they gave us excellent suggestions. Our driver asked us if we planned to see the Monte Palace Gardens. He highly recommended we take the time to visit the gardens, then just walk over to the basket toboggans.

We took his advice and are glad we did!

The gardens are extensive and lush, and there were several amazing sights including a modern art exhibition, an fascinating mineral and crystal exhibit, live swans and flamingos, and more.

Built on the steep hillside, we started at the topmost entrance and worked our way down through the gardens. Rather than climbing the steep steps and ramps back up, we caught an inexpensive electric carriage the delivered us comfortably, quickly, and quietly back to the top.

The quiet, comfortable, and inexpensive electric shuttle

If you need to get back up to the top, you definitely want to avail yourself of the comfortable mountain-climbing Monte Palace Garden shuttle.

Monte Toboggans (aka “Carros de cesto do Monte“)

    This 100+ year old tradition will have you sliding in wicker basket seats with bare wooden runners sliding down steep paved streets. The ride is about 2km long and you reach speeds of up to 38 kph (24 mph). Two men run, pull, steer, and ride with you on the exhilarating ride down.

    After thousands of rides, sections of the asphalt have been ground smooth to the point it shines.

    At the bottom of the ride, the baskets are loaded on a truck and the drivers board a bus to take them back up the hill.

    It’s hard to image how a century ago these toboggans slid over rough cobblestones. Also, the poor drivers not only had to walk back up the hill, they had to carry the toboggans back up the hill.

    Vereda do Pico Ruivo

    This highest point on Madeira (and third highest point in Portugal) reaches an altitude of 1851 meters (6106 ft) and offers a stunning panoramic view. Crowds will gather to see sunrise here.

    We didn’t make it for sunrise, but got to stop and take in the views during a guided tour of the island. Our driver said a thousand people can gather for the sunrise, so if you want to do that, plan carefully. I would hire a local driver rather than navigate the tight, steep curves in the pre-dawn darkness.

    Miradouro do Guindaste Viewpoint

    The northern coast of Madeira is very different from the southern coast. It is more rugged with sheer basalt cliffs rising out of the ocean. I think the first images I saw of Madeira were from the northern coast and reminded me of pictures I may have seen of the island of Kauai, Hawaii.

    This is just one of many viewpoints, and it is located next to Santana, Madeira, where you can also view some of the distinctive traditional Madeirense homes with bright colors and steep thatched roofs.

    Aguage Waterfall

    Near Santana you can also visit the Aguage Waterfall. But the road is narrow, steep and unpaved. We visited it driven in a 4×4 Jeep.

    Ponte do Bode

    This is the spectacular eastern most tip of Madeira. For fans of Star Wars, it is a filming location “The Acolyte

    Quinta do Barbusano Winery

    São Vicente is a town in the near the northwest cost of Madeira. It sits in a valley surrounded by spectacular steep hills with grapevines and rock terraces. A small hill with a single church steeple rises from the valley floor.

    The Quinta do Barbusano winery has a beautiful tasting room which offers stunning views of the growing vines and the valley below.

    After a walk through and under the grapevines, we returned to the tasting room where we enjoyed an amazing meal including Espetada to pair with several tastings of win.

    Ponto Do Sol

    On the opposite side of the island to the southwest is Ponto do Sol, which is rumored to have the most beautiful sunrise views. The weather was a bit stormy and we were too sleepy to get up to see the sunrise, but the rugged rocks and surf was still spectacular to view.

    Museu da Banana da Madeira

    The Madeira Banana Museum is just 15 km west of Funchal, and the address is Ponto do Sol, however, a tunnel separates it from the main old town pictured above, and you can’t walk through the tunnel.

    Nevertheless, the Banana Museum offers fascinating history of the cultivation of bananas and Madeira’s long history of growing and selling bananas abroad.

    All along the southwest coast we saw countless banana groves. Looking out our hotel window we were presented with a solid wall of banana plants.

    Conclusion

    Madeira may seem a bit out of the way for travelers to Portugal, but it is surprisingly easy to get to and quite affordable. It is well worth adding to your itinerary. We definitely want to return!


    1. Introduction: Three Weeks in Portugal – A Blog Series
    2. A Chance, Once-In-A-Lifetime Musical Moment
    3. The Impact of Just a Few Words
    4. Eating Well in Portugal
    5. Drinking Well in Portugal
    6. Speaking Finnish on Madeira
    7. Madeira – An Adventure Awaits You!