Tag Archives: lisbon

4. Eating Well in Portugal

Summary: Food is fresh, healthy, and plentiful in Portugal

Note: This will be one of several posts on food and beverages in Portugal. This one will focus on just food.

It is easy to eat well in Portugal — and we certainly did!

We found most dishes prepared with fresh, local, and seasonal produce.

Portugal consumes less Ultra-Processed Food (UPFs) than most countries, even among its European neighbors (guess which country routinely is on the top of the list for average daily calories from UPFs?).

Fresh Produce

The fresh fruits and vegetables we saw in markets were gorgeous! Here’s one vendor selling only mushrooms:

Mushrooms at the fabulous and historic Mercado do Bolhão in Porto

The fruit stands in Madeira were especially impressive (all the fruit you see in this picture was grown on the island of Madeira):

Fresh fruit at the Mercado dos Lavradores (farmers’ market) in Funchal

Seafood

The Portuguese also consume a lot of seafood, and we ate some seafood almost every day, which included some items we’d never seen before. Here are just a few dishes we were served and readily consumed:

Cheese

We ate beautiful cheese every day in Portugal. Cheese is made on the mainland and on the Azores, but not on Madeira. Cow’s, goat’s, and sheep’s milk cheeses were served nearly every breakfast. Every dinner started with a couvert, typically a basket of bread and butter, sometimes including olives, olive oil, and/or cheese. Cheese was also offered as dessert after several dinners.

Pastel de nata

Of the many desserts we had, we of course ate many Pastéis de nata (plural form of Pastel de nata). These miniature egg custard tarts are best dusted with cinnamon and maybe a little sugar. There are friendly debates over who makes the best Pastéis de nata. We ate many and even hand carried a dozen home with us. Sadly, I just consumed the last of them last night.

The good news is that my wife purchased a stack of Pastéis de nata tins, and a pastry cookbook, so with luck, I may get to enjoy good Portuguese egg tarts without having to wait until I’m back in Portugal.

Meat

The meat we had was delicious and well-prepared.

One special dish we enjoyed a couple times was espetada, which is meat cooked on skewers. On Madeira, it is common to use bay laurel branches instead of metal for the skewers. The laurel branch imparts flavor into the meat.

Each table was equipped with tall bars with hangers on which each skewer could be secured. One must use a knife and fork to slide the meat vertically off the hanging skewer.

One thing I noticed, when ordering meat dishes, we rarely were asked how we wanted the meat prepared. In those cases, it was usually served medium-rare (which happens to be our preference).

At restaurants that catered to tourists, we were asked. Their assumption was we would want it medium or medium-well and they were a bit surprised when we asked for “medium-rare.” I don’t know, but do our British compatriots prefer their meat cooked a bit longer?

The francesinha (pronounced approximately “fra-nsi-sinh-uh“) is a special sandwich originally from Porto. A stack of many different kinds of hot meats is sandwiched between toasted bread, topped with slices of cheese. Hot tomato and beer sauce is poured over the tower, melting the cheese.

Our first francesinha at Santa Francesinha

A square about a block from our hotel in Porto had at least 4 restaurants all advertising Francesinhas. Our first one was so big we had to split it in half to share between the two of us.

Tip #1: Ask for restaurant recommendations

We received suggestions for restaurants from our drivers, tour guides, and shop keepers, and they were all excellent! People are happy to give you suggestions and you are well advised to heed them.

Be sure to have them write down the names for you. Unless you familiar with Portuguese, hearing the name doesn’t mean you will come anywhere close to spelling the name correctly on your own.

Tip #2: Ask your server for suggestions

Consistently, whenever we asked our server for a recommendation, they offered it without hesitation, and they never steered us wrong.

At one restaurant, Annie asked whether she should get the roasted chicken or the BBQ chicken. The answer was immediate: “roasted chicken,” without explanation or elaboration.

At another restaurant I couldn’t decide between any of the meat entrées. The server indicated that “Granny’s Roasted Veal” (slow roasted and sweetened with wild chestnuts) was the chef’s actual grandmother’s recipe. It was excellent!

We were advised on more that one occasion when they thought we were ordering too much food.

Tip #3: Let your server choose your wine

Having little hope of becoming sufficiently knowledgeable to select a Portuguese wine from a wine list, we simply asked our servers to choose our wines for us. We were always offered a taste, and our servers consistently made satisfactory selections for us.

I photographed the labels of many wines I tasted and enjoyed. But given how little Portuguese wine we see in stores at home, I doubt I will see them again until I return to Portugal.

In another blog post I will list our favorite restaurants including one in Lisbon so good we had to go back a second time!


  1. Introduction: Three Weeks inIntroduction: Three Weeks in Portugal – A Blog Series
  2. A Chance, Once-In-A-Lifetime Musical Moment
  3. The Impact of Just a Few Words
  4. Eating Well in Portugal
  5. Drinking Well in Portugal
  6. Speaking Finnish on Madeira
  7. Madeira – An Adventure Awaits You!

3. The Impact of Just a Few Words

Summary: A few well-pronounced words and phrases make a surprising impact

Note: To anyone who knows Portuguese, I apologize for any mistakes I make in this post. I welcome your comments and corrections!

I started with good intentions.

Enjoying our last dinner in Portugal at éLeBê Entreparedes

In the past when preparing to travel, I’d make a concerted effort to learn some basic words and phrases as well as basic pronunciation. Often, I’d pick up a phrase book and practice learning the basics.

For this trip, I went so far as to purchase a stack of Pimsleur European Portuguese conversational language CDs as well as a deck of Lingo Portuguese language playing cards.

My wife did some online language lessons only to realize too late that she was learning Brazilian Portuguese.

Alas, work, life, sloth, whatever — I found myself flying across the Atlantic with vocabulary limited pretty much to “hello” and “thank you.” (“olá” and “obrigado,” respectively).

Fortunately for us, the vast majority of people we met in Portugal knew at least some English. There were only a couple rideshare drivers and a shopkeeper here or there that could not speak English. A quick usage of a translating app on my phone got us through those infrequent situations.

Beautiful street art in Lisbon

I felt bad about arriving so linguistically ill-prepared, but I decided the least I could do was to improve my pronunciation as best as I could for what little I did know and later would learn.

I had heard from someone that any word ending with “o” should be pronounced “oo.” So the city of Porto should be pronounced (“Por-Too”) and thank you (“obrigado” if you are a male) should be pronounced “oh-bri-ga-doo.”

An additional challenge with European Portuguese is that many of the written letters are not voiced. In contrast, I heard that Brazilian Portuguese has simplified its spelling to be phonetic like Spanish and German.

Learning One Phrase

I decided to look up one phrase using the Deepl app on my phone (I prefer Deepl to Google Translate). I wanted to know how to say, “we our on our honeymoon.” Deepl reported the translation as “estamos em lua de mel.”

Listening to the audio pronunciation, the dropped/skipped letters made it sound like:

“SHTAH-moes eh-LOO-a d’MELL.”

I first drilled it into my head using this mnemonic device:

“(John) Stamos (K)ahlua (Cecil B.) DeMille”

I shared this memory device with my wife, who later tried to recall it, but hilariously came up with “Tony Danza….???”

The Power Of One Phrase

Mastering this one phrase served us well.

Chilled sparkling wine and bon bons awaited us at Torel Palace Porto

People we met were already friendly and welcoming, but whenever my wife or I would utter this phrase, their eyes would light up and the enthusiasm bubble over. Several restaurants gave us complimentary flutes of sparkling wine with our dinner, and twice we found chilled bottles of sparkling wine awaiting us in our hotel rooms.

Simply saying “olá,” (hello), “bom dia” (good morning), or “boa noite” (“boy noit” – good evening) was enough to stop locals from immediately pegging us as English speakers.

If we said “estamos em lua de mel,” however, they assumed we were fluent and often barreled forward in Portuguese. I’d have to sheepishly admit that this phrase constituted about 50% of my Portuguese vocabulary, but it made me feel proud every time they told us our pronunciation was really good.

Pastéis de nata hot out of the oven at Manteigaria – Fábrica de Pastéis de Nata, Porto

On one of the last days of our trip, we were in a baking supply store buying little cups needed to make pastéis de nata, the famous Portuguese egg cream tarts.

I spoke the phrase to the lady at the counter, and she launched into Portuguese. I had to stop her and admit the severe limits of my language proficiency. She responded that my wife and I were speaking better Portuguese than immigrants from the UK, Ukraine, or Russia who had been in Portugal for three years. That was sobering and disappointing to hear.

Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Monument to the Discoveries), Lisbon

The Portuguese are warm and welcoming, and they have a great history of exploration (and yes, colonization). I want to return to Portugal, and when I do, I will prepare much more to show my appreciation and respect through their language.


  1. Introduction: Three Weeks in Portugal – A Blog Series
  2. A Chance, Once-In-A-Lifetime Musical Moment
  3. The Impact of Just a Few Words
  4. Eating Well in Portugal
  5. Drinking Well in Portugal
  6. Speaking Finnish on Madeira
  7. Madeira – An Adventure Awaits You!

1. Introduction: Three Weeks in Portugal – A Blog Series

We’ve just returned from three weeks in Portugal.

National Palace of Pena, Sintra, Portugal

As I recover from jetlag, I am collecting and organizing scores and scores of pictures and videos along with many thoughts and memories which I plan to share here.

A. Where We Went

We spent a week in each of three locations: Lisbon, Madeira, and Porto. From each location, we toured locally and made day trips exploring the area and nearby cities.

B. When We Went

It was winter in Portugal, which meant cooler and more gray and rainy days. Being from the Pacific Northwest, the weather didn’t bother us, and we were glad to avoid the hotter temperatures of summer. Also, we were glad to go during the low season and avoid many of the crowds of tourists that come during the warmer months.

The exception was Madeira. At the same latitude as Marrakesh, Morocco, Madeira enjoys springlike weather 12 months a year. There is no “low” season as tourists flock to the “Hawaii of Portugal” to escape cold and dark winters or escape the heat of summer.

Ponta de São Lourenço, Madeira, Portugal – location of the recent Star Wars series, “The Acolyte”

One to four massive cruise ships docked every day during our week. We were told cruise ships mostly come during the winter, bringing visitors mostly from north and central Europe.

During New Year’s sometimes ten cruise ships will arrive. Most anchor offshore. The visitors watch the fireworks show, and at midnight all the cruise ships blast their mighty horns.

This year was an especially wet winter for Portugal, with consecutive storms bringing heavy rains and causing severe flooding in areas. We saw flooding on the news but didn’t experience anything worse than driving wind and rains a couple days.

Flood level Duoro River, which separates Porto from Gaia, Portugal

We witnessed the waters of the Duoro River getting uncomfortably high during our last few days. The river apparently flooded its banks the last day we were in Porto, but we didn’t venture out much due to the wind and rains so we didn’t see it ourselves.

C. Why We Went

We have both traveled quite a bit. But neither of us had been to Portugal. We’d heard great things from friends who had been, saw mouthwatering dishes on travel shows, and wanted to learn about Portuguese wine and port. We didn’t travel abroad at all last year, and so we chose Portugal for our delayed honeymoon. We were not disappointed. We loved our trip and already are thinking about what we’d like to do and see the next time.

Over the next month I expect to post a number of articles about our trip including travel tips, recommended food and restaurants, places to see, and more. Check back, share, and comment – especially if you have any questions.


  1. Introduction: Three Weeks in Portugal – A Blog Series
  2. A Chance, Once-In-A-Lifetime Musical Moment
  3. The Impact of Just a Few Words
  4. Eating Well in Portugal
  5. Drinking Well in Portugal
  6. Speaking Finnish on Madeira
  7. Madeira – An Adventure Awaits You!