Summary: A few tips about getting to and getting around Madeira.
Our second week was spent on Madeira and we loved it!
Madeira is one of two autonomous island regions of Portugal (the other being the Azores). It’s located about 700 km (430 miles) off the coast of Africa at nearly the same latitude as Marrakesh, Morocco. With springlike weather year-round, it is a popular destination for those escaping the cold of winter and is often called the “Hawaii of Portugal.”
Getting to Madeira is relatively easy and inexpensive. Although it is 1000 km (600 miles) southwest of Portugal, Ryanair and easyJet flights from the mainland can be purchased for as little as ~€40 (US$47 at this time). Many other airlines offer air service to FNC from locations other than mainland Portugal.
As with many budget airlines, those ticket prices often prove to be much higher — these two airlines charge for everything: carry-on bags, checked bags, choosing seats, etc.
Also, their carry-on and checked bag size and weight requirements are much more restrictive than other airlines. You really need to plan ahead, carefully weigh and measure your bags, and purchase baggage allowances ahead of time. If you have to purchase more baggage allowances at the airport that may cost you more.
We purchased large carry-on bag options for our easyJet flight to Madeira. Doing so also granted us early boarding which was a nice surprise.
Madeira Travel Tip 1: Measure and weigh your bags carefully and purchase the correct baggage allowance before flying to Madeira
Madeira’s main airport (FNC) is named after the Portuguese football (soccer) phenom, Cristiano Ronaldo, who was born in Funchal, Madeira. The Cristiano Ronaldo International Airport is an engineering marvel with a potentially hair-raising approach for passengers.
FNC is is a tabletop runway perched on a cliffside, supported by tall pillars with steep drop-offs at both ends. The original runway was much shorter. Pilots are still required to complete training and obtain specialized licensing to land there. The short runway, steep hillside, cross winds, short approach, and quickly changing climate conditions make it especially challenging.
Pilots must circle the runway, make a visual approach, and line up for the short descent. During that visual circumnavigation, passengers get a good view of the elevated tarmac hanging out into the ocean, supported by concrete stilts which straddle a major motorway.
Fortunately for us, no cross winds or bad weather challenged our arrival and departures. The two flights were executed without incident and felt pretty normal.
After deplaning and making a stop at the bathroom, we saw people lining up for passport control. This was confusing to me; wasn’t Madeira part of Portugal? The signage didn’t seem clear, but everyone seemed to be queueing up. None of the automatic machines were working, and there were only two passport controllers. We waited and waited as the long, serpentine line slowly made its way up to the two controllers.
When we finally got the front, the agent asked us for our destination. A little confused, I said “Funchal” (the largest city on Madeira). He directed us back through the line to the far right path to the exit and baggage claim. This line was only for passengers flying OUT of Madeira, not for new arrivals.
I didn’t take a picture during our arrival, but here’s a picture of the empty passport control area.
Madeira Travel Tip 2: Upon arrival, go directly to the exit/baggage claim. Don’t get caught in the unnecessary passport control line!
Website and travel information led us to believe there was no ridesharing services on Madeira. I am happy to report that is not the case. Bolt definitely operates on Madeira, and you should definitely download and install the Bolt app for easy and inexpensive travel on the island.
The Madeira airport is about a half-hour’s drive to Funchal. There is a bus service, but when I found out how cheap a Bolt ride would be, we chose the latter. We used Bolt for the vast majority of our transportation needs on Madeira and on the Portuguese mainland.
I would not recommend renting a car as the roads on Madeira are narrow, steep, and twisty. Let a local drive you!
Madeira Travel Tip 3: Download and use the Bolt app for easy and relatively inexpensive transportation.
One thing I love to do when travelling is to buy a bus pass either for specific destinations, or for just random riding and exploring.
It was a little confusing trying to figure out where to purchase a bus pass. There are many competing tour bus lines in addition to the local city and intercity buses.
I’m hesitant about buying a pass on the bus since I was uncertain how to pay, how much to pay, whether I would be able to communicate with the bus driver — and I didn’t want to hold up the bus. I had to explore a bit until I found where to buy the bus passes. I finally figured it out, finding a round, pointed dome kiosk on the main Av. Do Mar street next to the waterfront.
Google Maps or some mapping app is really needed to navigate the twisty streets, boulevards, and pedestrian-only walkways of Madeira (and most Portuguese cities). It is easy to get confused and lose your sense of direction simply walking. These apps will also tell you which bus lines you might use to get to your destination. However, finding the correct bus stop and catching a bus is not so simple.
For starters, the bus stop signs print the bus numbers in incredibly small text, and more often than not, the sign is blocked by a post or the roof of the shelter. This requires one to walk within a meter or two of the sign to verify the bus line number.
Secondly, either Google Maps does not have the correct bus schedule information, or the buses are not punctual (or both).
Third, just because you are sitting at a bus shelter does not mean the next bus will stop for you. You must stand up and walk to the curb as the bus approaches. Remain seated, and the bus may drive past without slowing down.
Finally, buses may be full by the time they get to your stop and will pass you by. This may especially be the case if you are in popular areas or trying to catch a popular bus (e.g. up the mountain to the basket toboggans and the Monte Palace). To avoid this happening to you, either try to catch the bus at its origin, or just take a Bolt.
Madeira Travel Tip 4: Taking the bus requires flexibility, patience, and luck
Everywhere we went, people were helpful providing suggestions of what to see, where to eat, and when to go. Their suggestions were consistently excellent, and we were glad to receive them.
As I’ve written before, ask your restaurant server for suggestions. They will give you honest, informed, and unambiguous suggestions for your food and beverages. We were never steered wrong.
Madeira/Portugal Travel Tip 5: Ask for and heed the recommendations of your driver, concierge, and server
We went on a couple of guided tours of Madeira. One was a 4×4 jeep tour and the second was a wine tasting tour. Both gave us beautiful views of the island and stopped in small towns for snacks and drinks. The locals are justifiably proud of Madeira’s history, rugged and beautiful geography, and delicious food and beverages. Some we just stumbled upon. Here is a random list of recommended things to see and do:
Visit the Monte Palace Gardens
After trying and failing to take a city bus up to the famous basket toboggans (aka “Carros de cesto do Monte“), we took a Bolt. Several of our Bolt drivers were locals who had grown up on Madeira, and they gave us excellent suggestions. Our driver asked us if we planned to see the Monte Palace Gardens. He highly recommended we take the time to visit the gardens, then just walk over to the basket toboggans.
We took his advice and are glad we did!
The gardens are extensive and lush, and there were several amazing sights including a modern art exhibition, an fascinating mineral and crystal exhibit, live swans and flamingos, and more.
Built on the steep hillside, we started at the topmost entrance and worked our way down through the gardens. Rather than climbing the steep steps and ramps back up, we caught an inexpensive electric carriage the delivered us comfortably, quickly, and quietly back to the top.
If you need to get back up to the top, you definitely want to avail yourself of the comfortable mountain-climbing Monte Palace Garden shuttle.
Monte Toboggans (aka “Carros de cesto do Monte“)
This 100+ year old tradition will have you sliding in wicker basket seats with bare wooden runners sliding down steep paved streets. The ride is about 2km long and you reach speeds of up to 38 kph (24 mph). Two men run, pull, steer, and ride with you on the exhilarating ride down.
After thousands of rides, sections of the asphalt have been ground smooth to the point it shines.
At the bottom of the ride, the baskets are loaded on a truck and the drivers board a bus to take them back up the hill.
It’s hard to image how a century ago these toboggans slid over rough cobblestones. Also, the poor drivers not only had to walk back up the hill, they had to carry the toboggans back up the hill.
This highest point on Madeira (and third highest point in Portugal) reaches an altitude of 1851 meters (6106 ft) and offers a stunning panoramic view. Crowds will gather to see sunrise here.
We didn’t make it for sunrise, but got to stop and take in the views during a guided tour of the island. Our driver said a thousand people can gather for the sunrise, so if you want to do that, plan carefully. I would hire a local driver rather than navigate the tight, steep curves in the pre-dawn darkness.
Miradouro do Guindaste Viewpoint
The northern coast of Madeira is very different from the southern coast. It is more rugged with sheer basalt cliffs rising out of the ocean. I think the first images I saw of Madeira were from the northern coast and reminded me of pictures I may have seen of the island of Kauai, Hawaii.
This is just one of many viewpoints, and it is located next to Santana, Madeira, where you can also view some of the distinctive traditional Madeirense homes with bright colors and steep thatched roofs.
Aguage Waterfall
Near Santana you can also visit the Aguage Waterfall. But the road is narrow, steep and unpaved. We visited it driven in a 4×4 Jeep.
This is the spectacular eastern most tip of Madeira. For fans of Star Wars, it is a filming location “The Acolyte“
São Vicente is a town in the near the northwest cost of Madeira. It sits in a valley surrounded by spectacular steep hills with grapevines and rock terraces. A small hill with a single church steeple rises from the valley floor.
The Quinta do Barbusano winery has a beautiful tasting room which offers stunning views of the growing vines and the valley below.
After a walk through and under the grapevines, we returned to the tasting room where we enjoyed an amazing meal including Espetada to pair with several tastings of win.
On the opposite side of the island to the southwest is Ponto do Sol, which is rumored to have the most beautiful sunrise views. The weather was a bit stormy and we were too sleepy to get up to see the sunrise, but the rugged rocks and surf was still spectacular to view.
The Madeira Banana Museum is just 15 km west of Funchal, and the address is Ponto do Sol, however, a tunnel separates it from the main old town pictured above, and you can’t walk through the tunnel.
Nevertheless, the Banana Museum offers fascinating history of the cultivation of bananas and Madeira’s long history of growing and selling bananas abroad.
All along the southwest coast we saw countless banana groves. Looking out our hotel window we were presented with a solid wall of banana plants.
Conclusion
Madeira may seem a bit out of the way for travelers to Portugal, but it is surprisingly easy to get to and quite affordable. It is well worth adding to your itinerary. We definitely want to return!
Blatant Calm 