This Part 3 of my 7-part sailing series. Click here to see a list of the series posts.
Day 3: Svendborg
The weak, unfavorable winds of the prior day meant that to circumnavigate Fyn we’d have to motor 40 miles north. And even then, we’d be dependent upon favorable winds for our return. We decided to scrap that plan and on the third day chose to sail due east to Svendborg, Denmark, a trip of just 30km/18 miles.

During our gentle sail, I took a nice nap in the bowsprit netting.

This relaxing stretch also gave my German friends time to teach me “Doppelkopf” (“double head”) which is a very complex, very German card game:
- Weird collection of cards: 10 through Ace, twice
- Different card order, point-wise: A = 11 points, 10 = 10, K = 4, Q/D = 3, J/B = 2
- Different order of card strength (in descending order): 10 of hearts, Q/D (clubs, spades, hearts, diamonds, respectively), J/B (clubs, spades, hearts, diamonds, respectively), A, 10, K of diamonds
- Everything listed above is trump
- Everything else (A, 10, K except the above) is not trump
- You play with a partner, but in each hand you don’t know who your partner is. Whichever two people hold a Queen of Clubs become partners — and of course if you have both Queens of Clubs, there’s a whole different rule ….

Anyway, I had learned and really enjoyed Skat 34 years ago when I studied in Germany. Doppelkopf is more complex, but fortunately some of the rules from Skat helped me learn this crazy game. I grew to love it and played it many times during the rest of the trip.

For those interested in learning Doppelkopf, click here for some instructions.
As we approached Svendborg, we had to pass under a bridge. Although our captain assured us there was plenty of clearance above our masts, it sure looked like we would hit the span.


After docking in Svendborg, we enjoyed some Danish ice cream, then walked around the city to take in the sights.



Day 4: Flying to Nyborg, Denmark
I think it worked out great that our first few days were mild and calm as we got used to the lines, sails, and routines. On this day we had strong, favorable winds and set a new distance record.
Sailing out of Svendborg, we had to sail through several S-turns between red and green buoys. I let the captain know I wanted to steer and was surprised when he put me on the tiller immediately. Not only did I have to steer the ship through the turns, but there was also a current that caused the ship to slide to the side. Winds were weak and intermittent at this point as tall trees on nearby tiny islands blocked nice, consistent winds, and I struggled as the ship would swing left and right with the changing winds and currents.
When we neared the final, sharp turn to the north up the big channel between the big island of Fyn and the long skinny island of Langeland, the winds and shifting currents were insufficient for us to complete a clockwise 270-degree turn. The captain fired up the diesel engines. He let me steer the big rotation of the ship, and then we caught the wind.

So strong was the wind that we didn’t even raise our main sail, and the secondary sail was hoisted only to about 85%. Our three foresails were opened, and man did we cook! Previous days we achieved maybe 5 knots at best. Today we hit 8.5, and it felt like we were flying.
Other sailboats were out, and one was trailing us. To my surprise it could not overtake us. She simply followed diagonally behind us. She had both her sails aloft, although, like us, her main sail wasn’t fully hoisted. Probably the winds would have been too strong for her to attempt to apply full power. We powered forward, enjoying the speed and relatively smooth and minor rocking and rolling. The winds eased us down to about 6-7 knots, and then the sailboat was able to overtake our lumbering mass.

We arrived in Nyborg ahead of schedule around 3pm having traveled a record 51km/32 miles. Although the forecast threatened rain between 2-4pm, we only got a couple drops.

In Nyborg, I saw a self-service kayak rental. In a grocery store, I also spied Aviation Gin, produced in my home city of Portland, Oregon. It was selling for 299 Danish Kroner, which is about US$42. I also saw a special discount alcohol display selling Bombay Sapphire Gin for half that price.

Click here to continue to Part 4
Sailing the Baltic 7-Part Series:
Part 1: Introduction
Part 2: Getting Underway
Part 3: Flying Sails, Flying Cards
Part 4: A Lecture and New Speed Record
Part 5: Avernakø and the Captain’s Dinner
Part 6: Sønderborg, Another Talk, and Back To Germany
Part 7: Disembarking and Postlude































































